All Chef Ought to Train At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on List of London’s Leading Restaurants.

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. But, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.

Margaret Gonzalez
Margaret Gonzalez

A seasoned casino enthusiast and gaming analyst with over a decade of experience in slot machine mechanics and strategies.